When it comes to precision timepieces, the watch hands set is an essential component that defines both the functionality and aesthetic appeal of the watch. The specific dimensions 1.23/.87/.17 mm refer to the diameters of the holes that fit onto the watch movement’s pinions. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the critical aspects of selecting, installing, and maintaining a watch hands set 1.23/.87/.17 mm, ensuring both horological enthusiasts and professionals can achieve impeccable results.
Understanding Watch Hand Dimensions
What Do 1.23/.87/.17 mm Mean?
The dimensions 1.23 mm, 0.87 mm, and 0.17 mm correspond to the hole sizes for the hour hand, minute hand, and second hand respectively. These measurements are crucial because they must match the corresponding pinions of the watch movement to ensure a secure fit and proper functioning.
- 1.23 mm – Designed for the hour hand, fitting snugly onto the hour wheel pinion.
- 0.87 mm – Intended for the minute hand, attaching to the cannon pinion.
- 0.17 mm – Fits the second hand, connecting to the fourth wheel pinion.
Accurate measurements are vital to prevent misalignment, improper timekeeping, or damage to the movement.
Types of Watch Hands
1. Dauphine Hands
Known for their sharp, angular design, Dauphine hands are a staple in luxury watches. They provide excellent legibility and add a sophisticated touch.
2. Sword Hands
Broad and bold, sword hands are commonly found in military and diving watches due to their high visibility.
3. Breguet Hands
Featuring an elegant circle near the tip, Breguet hands exude classic charm, often seen in vintage and high-end watches.
4. Alpha Hands
These hands taper sharply towards the tip, offering a modern aesthetic suitable for contemporary watch designs.
Materials Used in Watch Hands
1. Brass
Brass is widely used due to its affordability and ease of manufacturing. It can be plated with gold, silver, or rhodium for added durability and aesthetic appeal.
2. Stainless Steel
Stainless steel offers superior strength and corrosion resistance, making it ideal for robust, everyday watches.
3. Gold and Precious Metals
Luxury watches often feature hands made from gold, platinum, or other precious metals, enhancing both value and elegance.
4. Luminous Materials
For watches designed for low-light conditions, hands may be coated with luminous paint like Super-LumiNova, ensuring visibility in the dark.
Choosing the Right Watch Hands Set 1.23/.87/.17 mm
Compatibility with Movement
Ensure the hand holes match the pinion diameters of your watch movement. Common movements like ETA 2824-2 or Miyota 8215 may require these specific dimensions.
Design and Aesthetics
Select a style that complements the watch dial and case design. Consider color contrasts, hand shapes, and finishes.
Quality and Finish
Opt for hands with a high-quality finish to prevent tarnishing and maintain a pristine look over time. Polished, brushed, or blued finishes can dramatically impact the watch’s appearance.
How to Install Watch Hands Set 1.23/.87/.17 mm
Tools You Will Need
- Watch hand press tool
- Tweezers (anti-magnetic)
- Movement holder
- Loupe or magnifying glass
Step-by-Step Guide
- Prepare the Movement: Secure the movement in a holder and set the crown to time-setting mode.
- Install the Hour Hand: Align the hour hand with the 12 o’clock mark and gently press it onto the hour wheel pinion.
- Install the Minute Hand: Repeat the process for the minute hand, ensuring perfect alignment.
- Attach the Second Hand: Use tweezers to place the second hand onto the fourth wheel pinion, applying gentle pressure with the hand press tool.
- Check Alignment: Ensure all hands are parallel and do not touch each other or the dial.
Maintenance Tips for Longevity
- Avoid Physical Shocks: Protect the watch from drops or impacts.
- Regular Cleaning: Dust and dirt can accumulate; clean the hands during regular servicing.
- Professional Servicing: Have your watch inspected by a professional every few years.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
1. Hands Touching Each Other
If the hands rub against each other, it may cause inaccurate timekeeping. Adjust the heights carefully using a hand press tool.
2. Loose Watch Hands
Hands that wobble or fall off indicate improper installation. Re-seat the hands firmly using the correct tools.
3. Misalignment with Hour Markers
Misaligned hands can be repositioned by removing and reinstalling them accurately.
Where to Buy Watch Hands Set 1.23/.87/.17 mm
You can purchase high-quality watch hands sets from:
- Horological supply stores
- Specialized online retailers
- Watchmaker supply distributors
Ensure you buy from reputable sources to guarantee authenticity and quality.
Conclusion
The watch hands set 1.23/.87/.17 mm plays a pivotal role in the functionality and design of your timepiece. Whether you are a professional watchmaker or an enthusiast, understanding the dimensions, materials, and installation process is crucial. By selecting high-quality components and maintaining them properly, you can ensure your watch remains a reliable and beautiful accessory for years to come.
